Red Velvet Hedgehogs Care Guide
Is a hedgehog the right animal for you?
Before you think about purchasing a hedgehog you should definitely give this a read. They are in no way considered beginner pets as they are exotic. They require several must have cage and care requirements, and they aren’t cheap animals. Even if you happen to find one on the cheaper spectrum of $25-100 be prepared to possibly pay vet bills because of age or any arising health issue. This goes for all hedgehogs of all ages. Not only should you prepare for the financial aspect but also the time you'll have to invest in them. Hedgehogs are very solitary animals in general, although if you want to keep them friendly you have to handle them every day. They sleep most of the day and typically only come out at night, but they do bond with people, and play to a certain extent but mostly just run around or cuddle depending on their mood. They are very cute, spunky creatures but they aren’t for everyone. If you have the proper husbandry and provide proper care and attention they can be amazing pets. I personally don't recommend them for timid people or small children, hedgehogs do “hiss” and “pop” which can seem quite scary to most people. In terms of defense they do not shoot their quills, but instead raise them. This won’t cause harm if you handle them with caution but they can poke you if you touch them while they are balled up or if their quills are raised. Their quills aren’t sharp unless they are being defensive, when they are calmed down they are very smooth. I would describe a quill as being similar to a toothpick, just a bunch of tiny ones. So to answer one of the most frequently asked questions- Yes they are sharp. If you get poked hard it will hurt, and sometimes even draw blood if you have a grumpier hog. The feeling of handling a hedgehog might seem a little out of the ordinary at first, but the more you handle them the easier it gets. These are animals that need to be bonded with every day or at least every other day. If they are left alone for long amounts of time they will become antisocial and not want to be handled, so it's crucial to show a hedgehog as much attention as possible. These are exotic pets, they are not rodents. Therefore, their care and handling is much different and requires much more extensive research before just diving into getting one.
Bonding/Quilling
Every hedgehog has their own personality, kind of like people. There are some that naturally have attitudes and there are some that are naturally absolute sweethearts. Their individual personality doesn't really start to develop until they are weaning from their mother at about 4-6 weeks old. I handle my babies almost daily, but every now and then there's a rotten one or two in the litter whose attitude cannot be altered until they are a bit older with more handling. This can be from just their general personality or quilling. Quilling is a very painful process that all hedgehogs undergo and can affect a hedgehogs mood drastically. You’ll know if a hedgehog is quilling when you see new quills protruding from their skin and loose ones in the cage. This will happen several times throughout their lifetime and can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. Depending on what hedgehog you get, you'll have different levels of difficulty in taming him/her down. If your hedgehog is on the grumpier side it will hiss, pop, and stay balled up. Remember! Even the meanest of hedgehogs don't typically bite and if they do it's usually because of a smell or taste on your hands. Even the tamest of hedgehogs hiss, so this is completely normal behavior. When a hedgehog is more relaxed with you, their quills will lay down and they will either adventure around or cuddle with you depending on their mood. If you are having a hard time bonding with your hedgehog put a shirt that has your scent on it in their cage to sleep with, this is a great way for them to associate your smell with comfort. Also, make sure to provide treats while they are out. Just be careful not to overfeed, this could lead to obesity, which is extremely common in hedgehogs). Talk softly, quietly, and move slowly around them. Eventually they will get used to you and get more comfortable as time goes on. It is a time consuming process that can take months with some hedgehogs. So if you come across a grumpy one don't give up, they just need lots of time and love!
Before you think about purchasing a hedgehog you should definitely give this a read. They are in no way considered beginner pets as they are exotic. They require several must have cage and care requirements, and they aren’t cheap animals. Even if you happen to find one on the cheaper spectrum of $25-100 be prepared to possibly pay vet bills because of age or any arising health issue. This goes for all hedgehogs of all ages. Not only should you prepare for the financial aspect but also the time you'll have to invest in them. Hedgehogs are very solitary animals in general, although if you want to keep them friendly you have to handle them every day. They sleep most of the day and typically only come out at night, but they do bond with people, and play to a certain extent but mostly just run around or cuddle depending on their mood. They are very cute, spunky creatures but they aren’t for everyone. If you have the proper husbandry and provide proper care and attention they can be amazing pets. I personally don't recommend them for timid people or small children, hedgehogs do “hiss” and “pop” which can seem quite scary to most people. In terms of defense they do not shoot their quills, but instead raise them. This won’t cause harm if you handle them with caution but they can poke you if you touch them while they are balled up or if their quills are raised. Their quills aren’t sharp unless they are being defensive, when they are calmed down they are very smooth. I would describe a quill as being similar to a toothpick, just a bunch of tiny ones. So to answer one of the most frequently asked questions- Yes they are sharp. If you get poked hard it will hurt, and sometimes even draw blood if you have a grumpier hog. The feeling of handling a hedgehog might seem a little out of the ordinary at first, but the more you handle them the easier it gets. These are animals that need to be bonded with every day or at least every other day. If they are left alone for long amounts of time they will become antisocial and not want to be handled, so it's crucial to show a hedgehog as much attention as possible. These are exotic pets, they are not rodents. Therefore, their care and handling is much different and requires much more extensive research before just diving into getting one.
Bonding/Quilling
Every hedgehog has their own personality, kind of like people. There are some that naturally have attitudes and there are some that are naturally absolute sweethearts. Their individual personality doesn't really start to develop until they are weaning from their mother at about 4-6 weeks old. I handle my babies almost daily, but every now and then there's a rotten one or two in the litter whose attitude cannot be altered until they are a bit older with more handling. This can be from just their general personality or quilling. Quilling is a very painful process that all hedgehogs undergo and can affect a hedgehogs mood drastically. You’ll know if a hedgehog is quilling when you see new quills protruding from their skin and loose ones in the cage. This will happen several times throughout their lifetime and can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. Depending on what hedgehog you get, you'll have different levels of difficulty in taming him/her down. If your hedgehog is on the grumpier side it will hiss, pop, and stay balled up. Remember! Even the meanest of hedgehogs don't typically bite and if they do it's usually because of a smell or taste on your hands. Even the tamest of hedgehogs hiss, so this is completely normal behavior. When a hedgehog is more relaxed with you, their quills will lay down and they will either adventure around or cuddle with you depending on their mood. If you are having a hard time bonding with your hedgehog put a shirt that has your scent on it in their cage to sleep with, this is a great way for them to associate your smell with comfort. Also, make sure to provide treats while they are out. Just be careful not to overfeed, this could lead to obesity, which is extremely common in hedgehogs). Talk softly, quietly, and move slowly around them. Eventually they will get used to you and get more comfortable as time goes on. It is a time consuming process that can take months with some hedgehogs. So if you come across a grumpy one don't give up, they just need lots of time and love!
Cage/Co-housing
Hedgehogs require a large one level cage. I use a 106 Qt clear sterilite tote for all of my hedgehogs. I personally prefer totes because hedgehog escapes and injuries are minimized and cleaning is much easier. These totes are not only hearty, but can be customized to your liking. I smelt/drill holes in the side for the water bottle. Just don't leave on the lids, and if you do make sure to install screen wiring for ventilation. They are lightweight and easy to store in just about any part of a room. Other cages include Guinea pig cages & Critter nation cages (A single level) with these you should apply coroplast or some type of barrier all around the front of the bars in the cage so the hedgehog cannot climb, or get their face/neck stuck in between the bars. C&C cages are also efficient but most of the time have to be home-made and take up quite a bit of space, I do NOT recommend tanks or multi-level cages for hedgehogs. Tanks carry more bacteria and are more prone to cause upper respiratory infections and the multi-level cages can cause fall injuries due to hedgehogs having poor eyesight. Bioactive cage set-ups for hedgehogs can also be used but extensive research on what you include in the cage is required before attempting to set it up. Co-housing is also an option with 2 female hedgehogs. ONLY 2 females. If you try to house 2 males together they will fight constantly, and if you house a male and a female the male will just keep re-breeding the female and killing the babies. I’ve co-housed several females in the past and for the most part its worked well. That's not the case for every hedgehog though- some are so solitary that other hedgehogs just stress them out. I typically only co-house with two females that are related in some way or familiar with each other (sisters, mother & daughter, if they grew up together as babies, etc.). If you’re going to co-house two girls they need to be young, and familiar with each other in some way
Hedgehogs require a large one level cage. I use a 106 Qt clear sterilite tote for all of my hedgehogs. I personally prefer totes because hedgehog escapes and injuries are minimized and cleaning is much easier. These totes are not only hearty, but can be customized to your liking. I smelt/drill holes in the side for the water bottle. Just don't leave on the lids, and if you do make sure to install screen wiring for ventilation. They are lightweight and easy to store in just about any part of a room. Other cages include Guinea pig cages & Critter nation cages (A single level) with these you should apply coroplast or some type of barrier all around the front of the bars in the cage so the hedgehog cannot climb, or get their face/neck stuck in between the bars. C&C cages are also efficient but most of the time have to be home-made and take up quite a bit of space, I do NOT recommend tanks or multi-level cages for hedgehogs. Tanks carry more bacteria and are more prone to cause upper respiratory infections and the multi-level cages can cause fall injuries due to hedgehogs having poor eyesight. Bioactive cage set-ups for hedgehogs can also be used but extensive research on what you include in the cage is required before attempting to set it up. Co-housing is also an option with 2 female hedgehogs. ONLY 2 females. If you try to house 2 males together they will fight constantly, and if you house a male and a female the male will just keep re-breeding the female and killing the babies. I’ve co-housed several females in the past and for the most part its worked well. That's not the case for every hedgehog though- some are so solitary that other hedgehogs just stress them out. I typically only co-house with two females that are related in some way or familiar with each other (sisters, mother & daughter, if they grew up together as babies, etc.). If you’re going to co-house two girls they need to be young, and familiar with each other in some way
Heating
Hedgehogs need to be kept in pretty warm temperatures, ideally around 75-78 degrees. Some hedgehogs prefer it warmer, some prefer it cooler. If you see them “Splat” out on the outside of their hide that typically means they are too hot. If they stay consistently balled up and are cold on the belly or show any signs of wobbling they are too cold. Most rooms do not stay at around the required temperature. My personal hedgehog room stays at around 77, heated by a space heater. If you don’t want to keep the entire room that warm, a Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) should be provided above the cage. These are preferred because they do not shine light, and they don’t typically get super hot. A thermostat must be provided as well to control the cages temperature. Heat pads and heat lamps are also options for homes that typically stay cold, but aren’t highly recommended because they can get too hot and possibly burn your hedgehog. If you decide to use a heat lamp or heat pad it needs to be checked multiple times a day and the temperature has to CONSTANTLY be monitored. Unfortunately I've seen too many hedgies either get hurt or their cage catch fire because of a lamp/pad malfunction so be sure to be very careful if picking this heating method.
Bedding
There are several options when it comes to bedding for hedgehogs. I use pine flake bedding from Feeders Supply . Other options include Fleece, care fresh, paper bedding, aspen, and pine (in flake or pellet form) I do not recommend cedar flakes or pellets, as they have been proven to be toxic to hedgehogs and other animals. Keep in mind that mites may infest wood bedding depending on where you get it and where it is stored. Freezing the bedding can help kill off mites, or treating the hedgehog or bedding with mite medication (Revolution for adult cats .01 ml per 100 grams on your hedgehog). This shouldn't be necessary unless mites are spotted. Bedding needs to be fully replaced at least once a week. I also recommended spot cleaning certain areas you see a buildup of feces in at least 1-2 times a week aside from the full cage clean. You should always make sure to provide your hedgehog with 2-5 inches thick of bedding so that they have room to burrow.
Cage accessories / Litter training
Hedgehogs are nocturnal animals so it is an absolute necessity to have somewhere for them to hide during the day. I use the large plastic “Igloos” (sold at most pet stores). Other home-made options are available like shoe boxes and large ice cream carts. When making a home-made hide always make sure there are no jagged edges on any of the sides, and that it’s big enough for your hog. For troublesome hedgehogs that tend to escape I recommend cuddle sacks. When hedgehogs reach full maturity their size can be compared to a medium to large guinea pig, therefore igloos should be medium to large depending on the size of the hedgehog. Cuddle sacks can be made at home or bought online on sites like Etsy. Another necessity is a wheel, a 12 inch solid base wheel should be provided for exercise. It must have a solid bottom due to the fragility of hedgehog toes and toenails. Metal wheels can result in severed nails or toes. I use the “Carolina Storm Wheel”, which can be bought offline for around $20. It is manufactured specifically for hedgehogs and other similar animals. It is very silent and easy to clean. Another must have is a food bowl & water bottle (Water bowls can be used but I personally don’t recommend them since they like to knock them over for sport). Other additions to the cage are cat toys (free of catnip), crinkle toys, toilet paper rolls (must have a slit cut in the side so they don’t get stuck), and Dixie cups. Another great tool for enrichment is a dig box, consisting of fleece strips, pom pom balls, and similar items in that category that do not prove to be a choking hazard. A litter box can be added if desired, some hedgehogs tend to use the bathroom in one area so litter training can be pretty simple for certain hogs. On the other hand some just go where they want to. You will inevitably get poop on their wheel. They aren’t the cleanest of animals. If you intend to litter train, use a different type of bedding for the litter box. Rabbit litter pans with pine pellets tend to work very well. Find the spot they defecate most and put the litter box there. Anytime they go outside of their litter box pick it up and put it in the box (I know, gross. But it can help in the long run!) Accessories are always great for enrichment but hedgehogs do still need room to roam, so just be sure to not over-do it!
Hedgehogs need to be kept in pretty warm temperatures, ideally around 75-78 degrees. Some hedgehogs prefer it warmer, some prefer it cooler. If you see them “Splat” out on the outside of their hide that typically means they are too hot. If they stay consistently balled up and are cold on the belly or show any signs of wobbling they are too cold. Most rooms do not stay at around the required temperature. My personal hedgehog room stays at around 77, heated by a space heater. If you don’t want to keep the entire room that warm, a Ceramic heat emitter (CHE) should be provided above the cage. These are preferred because they do not shine light, and they don’t typically get super hot. A thermostat must be provided as well to control the cages temperature. Heat pads and heat lamps are also options for homes that typically stay cold, but aren’t highly recommended because they can get too hot and possibly burn your hedgehog. If you decide to use a heat lamp or heat pad it needs to be checked multiple times a day and the temperature has to CONSTANTLY be monitored. Unfortunately I've seen too many hedgies either get hurt or their cage catch fire because of a lamp/pad malfunction so be sure to be very careful if picking this heating method.
Bedding
There are several options when it comes to bedding for hedgehogs. I use pine flake bedding from Feeders Supply . Other options include Fleece, care fresh, paper bedding, aspen, and pine (in flake or pellet form) I do not recommend cedar flakes or pellets, as they have been proven to be toxic to hedgehogs and other animals. Keep in mind that mites may infest wood bedding depending on where you get it and where it is stored. Freezing the bedding can help kill off mites, or treating the hedgehog or bedding with mite medication (Revolution for adult cats .01 ml per 100 grams on your hedgehog). This shouldn't be necessary unless mites are spotted. Bedding needs to be fully replaced at least once a week. I also recommended spot cleaning certain areas you see a buildup of feces in at least 1-2 times a week aside from the full cage clean. You should always make sure to provide your hedgehog with 2-5 inches thick of bedding so that they have room to burrow.
Cage accessories / Litter training
Hedgehogs are nocturnal animals so it is an absolute necessity to have somewhere for them to hide during the day. I use the large plastic “Igloos” (sold at most pet stores). Other home-made options are available like shoe boxes and large ice cream carts. When making a home-made hide always make sure there are no jagged edges on any of the sides, and that it’s big enough for your hog. For troublesome hedgehogs that tend to escape I recommend cuddle sacks. When hedgehogs reach full maturity their size can be compared to a medium to large guinea pig, therefore igloos should be medium to large depending on the size of the hedgehog. Cuddle sacks can be made at home or bought online on sites like Etsy. Another necessity is a wheel, a 12 inch solid base wheel should be provided for exercise. It must have a solid bottom due to the fragility of hedgehog toes and toenails. Metal wheels can result in severed nails or toes. I use the “Carolina Storm Wheel”, which can be bought offline for around $20. It is manufactured specifically for hedgehogs and other similar animals. It is very silent and easy to clean. Another must have is a food bowl & water bottle (Water bowls can be used but I personally don’t recommend them since they like to knock them over for sport). Other additions to the cage are cat toys (free of catnip), crinkle toys, toilet paper rolls (must have a slit cut in the side so they don’t get stuck), and Dixie cups. Another great tool for enrichment is a dig box, consisting of fleece strips, pom pom balls, and similar items in that category that do not prove to be a choking hazard. A litter box can be added if desired, some hedgehogs tend to use the bathroom in one area so litter training can be pretty simple for certain hogs. On the other hand some just go where they want to. You will inevitably get poop on their wheel. They aren’t the cleanest of animals. If you intend to litter train, use a different type of bedding for the litter box. Rabbit litter pans with pine pellets tend to work very well. Find the spot they defecate most and put the litter box there. Anytime they go outside of their litter box pick it up and put it in the box (I know, gross. But it can help in the long run!) Accessories are always great for enrichment but hedgehogs do still need room to roam, so just be sure to not over-do it!
Health & Bathing
Bathing is an important part of owning hedgehogs since they do not clean themselves. Especially if you have one that loves their wheel. “Poop boots" on hedgehogs feet happens with just about every wheel, if your hedgehog gets poop on his/ her feet a foot bath is needed. A complete bath needs to be done every 3-5 months, nail trimmings included. Bathing is easy, but I can’t say the same about clipping their nails. When you give them a bath, you need to make sure the water is warm to touch (not too hot, not too cold) and isn't high enough to go over their face/nose to avoid getting it up their nose. Johnsons baby soap is the cheapest route for soap, but I use “Hogwash” by Hedgehogs and Friends. You will need a toothbrush to brush the soap into their quills and on their belly. Gently brush them until they are sudsy, then rinse them off with some fresh warm water. Pat them down with a towel until they are dry, DO NOT use hair dryers for drying. When you clip their nails, Use cat nail clippers or baby nail clippers. Hold each foot still with the hedgehog in the towel and clip the very end, making sure not to hit the quick. If you do hit the quick, you can use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. Hedgehogs don't usually enjoy baths, so if they constantly try to escape that is normal. Just bare with them and make them as comfortable as you can in the time being. As time goes on they will get a little more used to it. When any health issue arises the first thing you need to do is take the hedgehog to the vet immediately. Unfortunately with hedgehogs there's not many home remedies available, and will 9 times out of 10 require a visit to the vet. You take your hedgehog to the vet when you notice things out of the ordinary like blood in their cage (after examining them for any treatable lesions), any blood in stool, excessive diarrhea, vomiting for no apparent reason, excessive sneezing or if they're having a hard time breathing, constant lethargy, any other apparent signs of sickness or injury. Always have a vet in place before getting a baby, and always have a vet fund with at least $500 set up in it in case of future emergencies. Since hedgehogs are exotic, a vet visit is typically more expensive for them than it would be for a more common animal like a dog or cat. Be sure to find a reputable vet that specializes in exotics like hedgehogs for proper care and advice. Some of the most common major health issues that can come up in hedgehogs are Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome and cancer. Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome is an awful neurological disease that's very similar to MS in humans. It makes them lose use of their back limbs and eventually leads to paralysis. It’s believed to be genetic, but is still not proven. It is also still not diagnosable until death with a necropsy of the brain. (I offer a lifetime warranty against WHS for all of my babies, see policy page for info) Minor health issues include Mites (treatable with several different methods, I use Revolution Adult Cat( .01ml per 100 grams), Dry skin (treatable with several different methods, I use “Coconut Quills” By hedgehogs and friends), URI, and UTI. Any minor health issue can turn into a major one when untreated. As far as other things you can use at home, “Vetericyn” is great for any cuts/sores. It comes in a spray form and is sold online and in farm stores like Tractor Supply. “Carnivore Care” is great for hedgehogs that are on the skinner side, sick, or just having a hard time eating. It helps them put on weight quickly, so just be careful not to over-feed.
Bathing is an important part of owning hedgehogs since they do not clean themselves. Especially if you have one that loves their wheel. “Poop boots" on hedgehogs feet happens with just about every wheel, if your hedgehog gets poop on his/ her feet a foot bath is needed. A complete bath needs to be done every 3-5 months, nail trimmings included. Bathing is easy, but I can’t say the same about clipping their nails. When you give them a bath, you need to make sure the water is warm to touch (not too hot, not too cold) and isn't high enough to go over their face/nose to avoid getting it up their nose. Johnsons baby soap is the cheapest route for soap, but I use “Hogwash” by Hedgehogs and Friends. You will need a toothbrush to brush the soap into their quills and on their belly. Gently brush them until they are sudsy, then rinse them off with some fresh warm water. Pat them down with a towel until they are dry, DO NOT use hair dryers for drying. When you clip their nails, Use cat nail clippers or baby nail clippers. Hold each foot still with the hedgehog in the towel and clip the very end, making sure not to hit the quick. If you do hit the quick, you can use flour or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. Hedgehogs don't usually enjoy baths, so if they constantly try to escape that is normal. Just bare with them and make them as comfortable as you can in the time being. As time goes on they will get a little more used to it. When any health issue arises the first thing you need to do is take the hedgehog to the vet immediately. Unfortunately with hedgehogs there's not many home remedies available, and will 9 times out of 10 require a visit to the vet. You take your hedgehog to the vet when you notice things out of the ordinary like blood in their cage (after examining them for any treatable lesions), any blood in stool, excessive diarrhea, vomiting for no apparent reason, excessive sneezing or if they're having a hard time breathing, constant lethargy, any other apparent signs of sickness or injury. Always have a vet in place before getting a baby, and always have a vet fund with at least $500 set up in it in case of future emergencies. Since hedgehogs are exotic, a vet visit is typically more expensive for them than it would be for a more common animal like a dog or cat. Be sure to find a reputable vet that specializes in exotics like hedgehogs for proper care and advice. Some of the most common major health issues that can come up in hedgehogs are Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome and cancer. Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome is an awful neurological disease that's very similar to MS in humans. It makes them lose use of their back limbs and eventually leads to paralysis. It’s believed to be genetic, but is still not proven. It is also still not diagnosable until death with a necropsy of the brain. (I offer a lifetime warranty against WHS for all of my babies, see policy page for info) Minor health issues include Mites (treatable with several different methods, I use Revolution Adult Cat( .01ml per 100 grams), Dry skin (treatable with several different methods, I use “Coconut Quills” By hedgehogs and friends), URI, and UTI. Any minor health issue can turn into a major one when untreated. As far as other things you can use at home, “Vetericyn” is great for any cuts/sores. It comes in a spray form and is sold online and in farm stores like Tractor Supply. “Carnivore Care” is great for hedgehogs that are on the skinner side, sick, or just having a hard time eating. It helps them put on weight quickly, so just be careful not to over-feed.
Food
Hedgehogs need a high protein cat food with low fat. I do not recommend feeding them 99% of hedgehog food found in pet stores , as it just has tons of useless staples and fillers in it. Cat food has always been the go-to for me, I am currently feeding a mix of Blue buffalo sensitive systems cat food, Rachael Ray Nutrish Chicken & Rice cat food, Purina One Sensitive Skin & Stomach cat food, and hedgehog precision standard formula (Hedgehog precision is the only "Hedgehog food" I would recommend buying. It can not be found at pet stores, but is sold on their actual website, everything else can be found on Chewy.) My babies can be switched on to different food, but it needs to be a high quality food with a fat content that ranges from 10-16% and protein ranging from 28-35%. I do not recommend feeding anything with peas in the first 4-5 ingredients. Treats can be added weekly as well, I personally do not recommend feeding fruits and veggies often or at all if possible. In my experience they can cause diarrhea and digestion issues. Protein should be the main focus- crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms, dubia roaches, boiled chicken, hard boiled /scrambled eggs, and cooked white meat, and cooked chicken organs (when using meat make sure to avoid ALL seasonings). Below are the foods I feed & treats given to my herd weekly.
Hedgehogs need a high protein cat food with low fat. I do not recommend feeding them 99% of hedgehog food found in pet stores , as it just has tons of useless staples and fillers in it. Cat food has always been the go-to for me, I am currently feeding a mix of Blue buffalo sensitive systems cat food, Rachael Ray Nutrish Chicken & Rice cat food, Purina One Sensitive Skin & Stomach cat food, and hedgehog precision standard formula (Hedgehog precision is the only "Hedgehog food" I would recommend buying. It can not be found at pet stores, but is sold on their actual website, everything else can be found on Chewy.) My babies can be switched on to different food, but it needs to be a high quality food with a fat content that ranges from 10-16% and protein ranging from 28-35%. I do not recommend feeding anything with peas in the first 4-5 ingredients. Treats can be added weekly as well, I personally do not recommend feeding fruits and veggies often or at all if possible. In my experience they can cause diarrhea and digestion issues. Protein should be the main focus- crickets, mealworms, super worms, wax worms, dubia roaches, boiled chicken, hard boiled /scrambled eggs, and cooked white meat, and cooked chicken organs (when using meat make sure to avoid ALL seasonings). Below are the foods I feed & treats given to my herd weekly.